Upon arrival we got thrown in at the deep end (but at least it wasn't the Ganges..) and were led with a degree of trepidation to the 'burning ghat' i.e. the site of public Hindu cremations. An explanation from a priest in return for a donation towards the cost of wood (the weight of which is measured exactly in relation to the size of the body) helped us appreciate the ceremony before us.
Varanasi at times was overwhelming with its filth, squalor, and the constant barrage of noise and people. An assault on the senses it may have been, but we also saw genuine spiritual devotion and it's impact on people's lives.
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